How to Change a Honda CR-V Tail Light (1997-2025): Complete Guide

There’s a reflection in the storefront window as you drive by at night, and you notice it—one of your tail lights is out. It’s a small thing, but it’s a safety hazard, a potential traffic ticket, and frankly, it just looks bad. My name is Alex, and as someone who has spent over five years with grease under my fingernails working on everything from classic roadsters to modern SUVs like the Honda CR-V, I’m here to tell you that this is a job you can absolutely handle yourself.

A functioning tail light is a non-negotiable part of road safety. It signals your presence, your intentions to brake, and your turns to other drivers. When one fails, it’s tempting to head straight to the dealership, but that often comes with a hefty bill for what is usually a very simple repair. This guide is designed to be the most comprehensive resource available, walking you through the entire process for every Honda CR-V generation, from the original 1997 model to the latest on the road today. We won’t just cover the “how-to”; we’ll diagnose the problem, help you find the exact parts you need, break down the costs, and troubleshoot common issues.

Forget the expensive dealership quote. With a few basic tools and a little bit of your time, you can have that tail light fixed and be back on the road safely. Let’s get started.

First Steps: Diagnosis, Tools, and Safety

Before you even think about buying a bulb or ordering a part, let’s play detective. I’ve learned the hard way that a tail light issue can be more than just a burnt-out bulb, and a few minutes of diagnosis now can save you a frustrating trip to the auto parts store for a part you don’t need. The problem you see is just a symptom, and we need to find the root cause.

Is It the Bulb, the Fuse, or Something Else? A Quick Diagnostic Guide

Let’s narrow down the possibilities based on what you’re observing with your CR-V.

Symptom 1: One specific light is out (e.g., the brake light doesn’t work, but the running light does).

Likely Cause: This almost always points to a burnt-out bulb. Many CR-V models use dual-filament bulbs that serve two functions (like brake and tail light). It’s very common for one of the two filaments to break while the other remains intact.
Your Action: The problem is isolated to the bulb itself. You can proceed directly to the replacement guide for your specific CR-V generation in Section 4.
Symptom 2: All tail lights are out.

Likely Cause: When multiple lights fail simultaneously, the problem is rarely the bulbs themselves. It’s more likely a systemic issue, such as a blown fuse that controls the tail light circuit or a faulty electrical relay.
Your Action: Don’t buy bulbs yet. Jump down to our Advanced Troubleshooting section to learn how to check your CR-V’s fuses.
Symptom 3: The brake lights are stuck on, even when the car is off.

Likely Cause: This is a classic Honda issue, and it’s probably not an electrical fault in the traditional sense. A small, inexpensive plastic stopper on your brake pedal arm has likely become brittle and disintegrated. Without it, the brake light switch remains engaged, keeping the lights on and draining your battery.
Your Action: This requires a specific, simple fix. Head to our troubleshooting guide on the “Famous Honda Stopper Issue” in Section 6.
Symptom 4: You replaced the bulb or assembly, and it still doesn’t work.

Likely Cause: This points to a problem with the power delivery. The issue could be a corroded bulb socket, a loose or broken wire in the harness, or, in rare cases, a faulty new part.
Your Action: You’ll need to inspect the socket for corrosion and may need a multimeter to test for power. Our troubleshooting section covers these steps.

Gathering Your Toolkit: The Right Tools for the Job

The good news is that for most CR-V generations, you won’t need any specialized equipment. A basic set of hand tools is usually all it takes.

Essential for All Generations:

Safety Glasses
Nitrile or Latex Gloves
For Bulb Replacements (Generations 1-4):

Phillips Head Screwdriver
8mm Socket with a Ratchet and a short Extension
Flat Blade Screwdriver or a Plastic Trim Removal Tool (for prying off small covers without scratching paint)
For Assembly Replacements (Generations 5-6):
All of the above, plus a dedicated Trim Removal Tool Kit is highly recommended. Modern assemblies are held in with more plastic clips that can be tricky to release without the right tool.

From My Toolbox: I always keep a small telescopic magnet and a magnetic parts tray handy. When you’re working in the tight confines of a tail light housing, it’s incredibly easy to drop a small bolt down into the body of the car. That magnet has saved me from countless minutes of frustration searching the garage floor.

Bulb or Full Assembly? A Critical Generational Divide

Before we go any further, it’s vital to understand a fundamental shift in how Honda designed the CR-V’s tail lights. What “changing a tail light” means depends entirely on how old your vehicle is.

For older CR-Vs (Generations 1-4, model years 1997-2016): The repair almost always involves replacing an individual, inexpensive incandescent bulb. The entire tail light housing is just a lens and reflector designed to be opened up.
For newer CR-Vs (Generations 5-6, model years 2017-Present): These models primarily use integrated LED (Light Emitting Diode) units. The LEDs are soldered onto a circuit board and sealed within the housing. If an LED fails, the bulb cannot be replaced; the entire tail light assembly must be swapped out. This significantly changes the procedure and, more importantly, the cost of the repair.

Essential Safety Precautions

This is a simple job, but safety should always be your first priority. Follow this checklist before you start.

Work in a Well-Lit Area: Make sure you can clearly see what you’re doing to avoid mistakes.
Turn the Vehicle Off: Ensure the ignition is off and the keys are out before you begin working on any electrical components.
Wear Protection: Always wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from debris and gloves to keep your hands clean and safe.
Handle Halogen Bulbs with Care: This is a crucial pro tip that many people miss. Never touch the glass of a new halogen bulb with your bare hands. The natural oils from your skin can create hot spots on the bulb’s surface when it heats up, causing it to burn out prematurely. Always handle new bulbs with a glove or a clean, lint-free cloth.
Change in Pairs: Automotive experts and manufacturers alike strongly recommend replacing exterior bulbs in pairs. If one bulb has burned out, the other one has been subjected to the same hours of use and vibrations and is likely not far from failing itself. Replacing both at the same time ensures a balanced and even light output for optimal safety and saves you from having to do the same job again in a few months.

The Definitive Honda CR-V Tail Light Bulb Guide (1997-2024)

For CR-V owners with models from 1997 to 2016, finding the correct replacement bulb is the most important step. Using the wrong bulb can result in it not fitting, not working, or even melting the housing. I’ve spent hours cross-referencing owner’s manuals, parts supplier databases, and lighting guides to create this comprehensive chart. While it’s always a good idea to double-check with your owner’s manual or by removing the old bulb first, this table will serve as your go-to reference.

The inconsistency of information online is a major frustration for many DIYers. One site might list one bulb number, while another lists a different one for the same car. This table synthesizes that fragmented data into a single, reliable source, noting the variations you need to be aware of.

Table 1: Honda CR-V Tail Light Bulb Reference Chart
Generation (Years)	Brake / Tail Light	Rear Turn Signal	Reverse (Back-Up) Light	Upper/Marker Light
1st Gen (1997-2001)	7443	7443	T15 / 921	T10 / 168
2nd Gen (2002-2006)	7443 or 1157*	7443 or 1156*	7443	T10 / 168
3rd Gen (2007-2011)	7443	7440 / 992 (Amber)	7440	T10 / 168
4th Gen (2012-2016)	7443	7443 or 1157**	7443	T10 / 168
5th Gen (2017-2022)	LED Assembly	LED Assembly or 7440***	LED Assembly or 921***	LED Assembly
6th Gen (2023-Present)	LED Assembly	7440 (Amber)	LED Assembly	LED Assembly

Footnotes and Explanations:

*Second Generation (2002-2006) Variation: During this period, the required bulb type can depend on the vehicle’s country of origin. To determine this, check the first character of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). If it starts with ‘J’, it was built in Japan and typically uses 7443/7440 style bulbs. If it starts with ‘S’, it was built in Great Britain (GBR) and may use 1157/1156 style bulbs.
**Fourth Generation (2012-2014) Variation: Some lighting guides indicate that the front and rear turn signal bulbs for these model years use the 1157 bulb type. It is best to visually inspect the existing bulb before purchasing a replacement.
***Fifth & Sixth Generation (2017-Present) Exceptions: While the main brake and tail lights are integrated LED units, Honda often uses standard incandescent bulbs for the turn signals and occasionally the reverse lights. This is a key detail, as it means you may be able to replace a burnt-out turn signal bulb for a few dollars instead of replacing the entire expensive assembly.

Step-by-Step Replacement Guides by CR-V Generation

This is where we get our hands dirty. Each generation of the CR-V has its own unique quirks for accessing the tail lights. I’ll walk you through each one with clear instructions and a pro tip I’ve picked up along the way.

First Generation (1997-2001): The Classic Vertical Light

The first-gen CR-V is a beautifully simple machine, and its tail lights are no exception. This is a straightforward job that should take you less than 15 minutes per side.

Tools Needed: Phillips Head Screwdriver.
Step-by-Step Instructions:

With the rear hatch closed, locate the three Phillips head screws visible on the colored side of the tail light assembly.
Carefully remove all three screws. Be sure to place them somewhere safe.
Gently grip the assembly and swing it outwards, away from the car’s body, to release it. The whole unit will pivot out.
Identify the bulb socket you need to replace. Grip the plastic base of the socket and twist it about a quarter-turn counter-clockwise to unlock it from the housing.
Pull the socket straight out. The old bulb can be pulled directly out of the socket.
Wearing gloves, insert the new bulb into the socket. You should feel it click into place.
Re-insert the socket into the housing, aligning the tabs, and twist it clockwise to lock.
Position the assembly back onto the vehicle and reinstall the three screws.

Expert Tip: The plastic on these older lenses can become very brittle over two decades of sun exposure. When you’re reinstalling the screws, don’t overtighten them. Just turn until they are snug; cranking down on them can easily crack the housing.

Second Generation (2002-2006): Accessing the Hidden Bolts

The second-gen CR-V was the first to hide its mounting bolts behind small plastic covers, but the job is just as easy. The key here is using a gentle touch when prying to avoid marring the plastic.

Tools Needed: 8mm socket with ratchet, Flat blade screwdriver or trim tool.
Step-by-Step Instructions:

Open the rear tailgate completely to gain access to the side of the tail light assembly.
You will see two small, circular plastic covers on the black plastic portion of the assembly. One is near the top, and one is near the bottom.
Use your flat blade screwdriver or a plastic trim tool to gently pry these covers off.
Underneath each cover is an 8mm bolt. Use your 8mm socket and ratchet to remove both bolts.
The assembly is now held in place by a couple of plastic clips on the outer edge. Grip the assembly firmly and pull it straight back, away from the vehicle, to release it.
From here, the process is the same: twist the sockets counter-clockwise to remove, replace the bulbs, and reinstall everything in the reverse order.

Expert Tip: Those clips can be surprisingly stiff, especially if the light has never been removed. The trick is a firm, steady pull directly backward. Wiggling the assembly side-to-side too much can snap the plastic alignment pins on the back of the housing, making it difficult to reinstall securely.

Third Generation (2007-2011): The Refined Two-Bolt System

This is one of the most common CR-V generations on the road, and thankfully, the process is nearly identical to the Gen 2. If you’ve done one, you can do the other.

Tools Needed: 8mm socket with ratchet, Flat blade or Phillips screwdriver.
Step-by-Step Instructions:

Open the rear hatch.
Just like the previous generation, locate the two circular plastic caps on the inside edge of the assembly. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to pop them out.
Use your 8mm socket to remove the two bolts hidden underneath. These bolts might also have a Phillips head cutout, but an 8mm socket provides a much better grip and reduces the risk of stripping them.
The assembly is secured by three clips along the outer side. Pull the housing straight back away from the body to release it.
Twist the sockets counter-clockwise to remove them from the housing.
Replace the necessary bulbs, referencing the chart in Section 3. The brake light is a dual-filament 7443, the turn signal is a 7440 amber, the reverse is a 7440 clear, and the top marker light is a small 194 bulb.
Reinstall the sockets and press the assembly back into place.

Expert Tip: When you’re reinstalling the assembly, take a moment to look at the back of the housing. You’ll see several plastic pins. Line these up with the corresponding holes in the car’s body before you push. This ensures a perfect alignment. You should hear and feel a satisfying “click” as the clips engage.

Fourth Generation (2012-2016): Working with Upper and Lower Lights

The fourth-gen CR-V introduced a design that splits the tail light into a main lower section on the body and a smaller upper section on the tailgate itself. The process is still simple, but you need to know which section houses the bulb you’re replacing.

Tools Needed: Ratchet and socket set (likely 8mm), Phillips screwdriver.
Step-by-Step Instructions:

Open the tailgate. The main lower assembly is held on by two bolts, accessible from the inside jamb.
Remove these two bolts.
Gently but firmly pull the assembly straight rearward to release the retaining clips.
The brake light (7443), turn signal (7443 or 1157), and reverse light (7443) bulbs are all located in this main lower section. Twist the sockets to remove them, replace the bulbs, and reinstall.
The upper section on the tailgate typically contains a smaller T10/168 marker light. Access may be behind a small plastic panel on the inside of the tailgate, which can be pried off.

Expert Tip: Be aware that the high-mount third brake light on these models, located at the top of the rear window, is often a sealed LED unit. If this light fails, you cannot replace a bulb. The entire assembly must be replaced, which is a different, though still manageable, DIY job.

Fifth Generation (2017-2022): The Shift to LED Assemblies

Welcome to the modern era of automotive repair. If you have a fifth-gen CR-V with a burnt-out brake or tail light, you’re most likely replacing the entire assembly because the main lights are integrated LEDs. Don’t be intimidated; the good news is that it’s still a simple bolt-on procedure.

Tools Needed: Ratchet and socket set, Screwdriver set, Trim removal tool kit.
Step-by-Step Instructions:

Open the liftgate to expose the mounting hardware. You may need to remove a plastic trim piece or covers to access the bolts.
Remove the mounting bolts (typically two or three 8mm bolts).
Before pulling the light, locate the main electrical harness connector and carefully disconnect it. There’s usually a small tab you need to press to release the lock.
The assembly is held on tightly by clips and alignment pins. This is where a plastic trim tool is your best friend. Gently work the tool into the seam between the light and the body to start prying. Pull the assembly straight back with steady force.
To install the new assembly, first connect the electrical harness and test the lights to make sure the new part works.
Align the pins on the new assembly with the holes in the body and push it firmly into place until you hear the clips snap in.
Reinstall the mounting bolts.

Expert Tip: Proper reinstallation is critical to prevent leaks and ensure a factory look. A common mistake is not seating the assembly correctly, which leaves an unsightly gap. As you push the assembly forward into place, also apply pressure inward toward the center of the car. This ensures it slides correctly onto all the mounting tabs for a flush fit.

Sixth Generation (2023-Present): Servicing the Newest CR-Vs

The latest CR-V continues the trend of sealed LED units but includes a welcome feature for DIYers: the rear turn signal is often a standard, replaceable bulb! This means a common failure can be fixed for just a few dollars.

Tools Needed: Screwdriver, Socket set.
Step-by-Step Instructions:

Open the liftgate and locate the two mounting screws holding the outer tail light assembly, one at the top and one at the bottom.
Remove both screws.
Grip the assembly and pull it straight back with firm, even pressure to release the retaining clips.
Disconnect the main electrical harnesses attached to the back of the unit. There will be a small release tab on each connector.
To replace the turn signal bulb: Find the one socket that is designed to be removed (it will look different from the sealed parts of the unit). Twist it counter-clockwise, pull it out, and replace the 7440A (Amber) bulb.
To replace the entire assembly: Simply connect the harnesses to the new unit, align the clips, and press it into place before reinstalling the two screws.

Expert Tip: Even on brand-new cars, manufacturing defects can happen. One owner reported finding water and condensation inside a new 2023 CR-V tail light assembly right from the factory. If you notice any moisture inside your lens, don’t try to fix it yourself—this is a clear warranty issue, and your Honda dealer should replace it for free.

The Financial Breakdown: DIY vs. Dealer

One of the biggest motivators for any DIY project is saving money. But how much can you actually save by replacing a CR-V tail light yourself? The answer depends heavily on the generation of your vehicle. The shift from simple bulbs to complex LED assemblies has dramatically changed the cost landscape.

The value of doing this job yourself has actually increased over time. For older cars, the savings were primarily on labor for a very cheap part. For newer cars, the labor is just as simple, but the savings come from avoiding the massive dealership markup on an expensive, non-serviceable part.

Table 2: Estimated Cost of Honda CR-V Tail Light Replacement
Generation (Years)	Repair Type	DIY Cost Range	Professional Repair Est. (Parts + Labor)
Gen 1-4 (1997-2016)	Bulb Replacement	$10 – $25 (for a pair of quality bulbs)	$115 – $190
Gen 5-6 (2017-Present)	Assembly Replacement	$80 – $250 (Aftermarket) $250 – $450+ (OEM)	$400 – $600+

Analysis of the Costs

The Bulb Era (Generations 1-4): The savings are obvious and immediate. A pair of high-quality tail light bulbs costs less than a pizza, and the job takes minutes. Paying a shop over $100 for this repair means you are paying almost entirely for labor. This is a perfect entry-level DIY project with a great return on your time.
The Assembly Era (Generations 5-6): Here, the potential savings are massive, even though your initial parts cost is higher. Dealerships and body shops often quote $500 or more for this repair. By sourcing your own part—either a more affordable aftermarket unit or a discounted OEM part online—and installing it yourself, you can easily save hundreds of dollars on a job that is still just a matter of removing a few bolts and a connector.

Advanced Troubleshooting: When It’s Not Just the Bulb

You’ve put in a new bulb or a whole new assembly, you turn on the lights, and… nothing. Don’t panic. This is a common point of frustration, but it usually points to a handful of other issues that are often easy to fix once you know where to look.

Problem: My Brake Lights Are Stuck On (The Famous Honda Stopper Issue)

This is, without a doubt, one of the most common issues I see on Hondas from the late 90s through the 2010s. If your brake lights refuse to turn off and are draining your battery, the culprit is almost certainly not the lights themselves.

The Cause: Deep under the dashboard, where the brake pedal arm pivots, there is a small switch that your brake lights. When you press the pedal, the arm moves away from the switch, turning the lights on. When you release the pedal, the arm presses the switch, turning them off. To cushion this contact, Honda used a small plastic or rubber stopper that sits in a hole on the pedal arm. After years of heat cycles and use, this stopper becomes brittle, cracks, and falls apart in little pieces onto your floor mat.
The Diagnosis: The easiest way to confirm this is to look on your driver’s side floor mat. If you see small, colorful bits of broken plastic, you’ve found your culprit. You can also reach under the dash and feel the brake pedal arm; you’ll find a small, empty hole where the switch plunger is now passing through, keeping the lights on permanently.
The Fix: This is a $5 fix. You can buy a new “Brake Pedal Stopper Pad” from any auto parts store or a Honda dealership. To install it, you simply push the new stopper into the hole on the brake pedal arm. It’s an awkward position to get into, but it’s a very simple repair.
The Temporary Hack: If you’re stuck and need to prevent your battery from dying, you can create a temporary fix. I’ve seen people use a small bolt and nut through the hole, or even a wad of duct tape, to create a surface that will press the switch. It’s a true “get you home” fix until you can get the proper part.

Problem: No Power to the Socket

If a new bulb doesn’t light up, it means electricity isn’t reaching it. Here’s how to trace the problem.

Step 1: Check the Fuses. A sudden electrical surge, often caused by moisture getting into a cracked tail light lens, can blow the fuse that protects the lighting circuit. Your CR-V has at least two fuse boxes: one in the engine bay and one inside the cabin, usually under the driver’s side dashboard. The inside of the fuse box cover or your owner’s manual will have a diagram showing what each fuse controls. Look for a fuse labeled “STOP” or “TAIL”. Pull the suspected fuse out (a fuse puller is often included in the fuse box) and hold it up to the light. If the thin metal wire inside is broken, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced with a new one of the exact same amperage.
Step 2: Inspect the Socket and Wiring. Pull the bulb socket out of the housing and look at the metal contacts inside. If you see any green or white crusty buildup, that’s corrosion, and it’s preventing a good electrical connection. You can often clean this off with a small wire brush or electrical contact cleaner. Also, give the wires leading to the socket a gentle tug to make sure they are secure.
Step 3: Use a Multimeter (for the advanced DIYer). If the fuse is good and the socket is clean, the final step is to check for power. Set a multimeter to DC volts. With the lights turned on, touch the red probe to one of the metal contacts inside the socket and the black probe to a known good ground (like a bare metal bolt on the car’s chassis). If you don’t read 12 volts, there is likely a break in the wiring somewhere between the fuse box and the tail light, which may require a professional to trace.

Upgrading and Longevity: OEM vs. Aftermarket & LED Conversions

When you’re replacing a part, you always have a choice: go with the original factory part or explore the world of aftermarket options. This is especially true for tail lights, where the choices can affect both performance and appearance.

The Great Debate: OEM vs. Aftermarket Assemblies

This decision is most relevant for owners of newer CR-Vs who are replacing an entire assembly.

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): These are the exact same parts that your car was built with at the Honda factory.

Pros: You are guaranteed a perfect fit, finish, and color match. The quality of the plastics and the weather sealing is typically top-notch, designed to last for many years without fading or leaking.
Cons: The cost. OEM parts from a dealership are notoriously expensive, often costing two or three times as much as an aftermarket equivalent.
Aftermarket: These parts are made by third-party companies to fit your vehicle.

Pros: The primary advantage is cost. Aftermarket assemblies are significantly more affordable. They also offer a wide variety of styles, such as smoked lenses, clear lenses, or different internal designs, allowing for customization.
Cons: Quality can be a gamble. The cheapest no-name units found online may use lower-grade plastic that yellows or fogs up quickly, have poor seals that allow condensation inside, and may not fit as perfectly as the original part.
My Recommendation: For a daily driver you plan on keeping for a while, a quality aftermarket brand like DEPO, TYC, or Eagle Eyes often provides the best balance of cost and quality. They are engineered to meet DOT (Department of Transportation) standards and offer a fit and finish that is very close to OEM. For a newer car still under warranty, or if you demand a perfect, indistinguishable repair, sticking with OEM is the safest bet. My advice is to avoid the absolute cheapest options you can find online; my experience, and that of many others, shows they often lead to frustration with fitment issues and condensation problems down the road.

Upgrading Older CR-Vs to LED

If you own an older CR-V, you can still get the benefits of modern lighting by swapping your incandescent bulbs for aftermarket LED bulbs.

The Benefits: LED replacement bulbs offer a much brighter, crisper light, which improves your visibility to other drivers. They also have an instant on/off reaction time, which can give the driver behind you a few extra feet of stopping distance. Plus, they consume less power and have a vastly longer lifespan than standard bulbs.
The Big Problem: Hyper-Flashing. There is one major catch when upgrading turn signals to LED. Because LEDs draw so much less power, your car’s electrical system thinks the bulb is burned out. To alert you, it flashes the turn signal indicator on your dash very rapidly. This is known as “hyper-flashing”.
The Solution: In-Line Resistors. The most common solution is to install an in-line resistor for each LED turn signal bulb. This small electronic component gets wired in parallel with the bulb’s circuit. Its job is to add electrical load, tricking the car’s flasher relay into thinking a regular power-hungry bulb is still there, which makes it flash at the normal speed. Many LED bulb kits for turn signals are sold with these resistors included.

A Job Well Done

There you have it—a complete guide to tackling any tail light issue on your Honda CR-V. By following these steps, you’ve not only fixed a critical safety component on your vehicle but also saved a significant amount of money and gained valuable experience and confidence in working on your car.

That feeling of stepping on the brake pedal and seeing both lights glow brightly in the reflection, knowing you did the job yourself, is what makes DIY maintenance so rewarding. The next time a warning light comes on or you notice a small issue, you’ll be better equipped to diagnose it and tackle it head-on. Happy motoring!

If you have any questions about your specific CR-V model or ran into a unique issue during your repair, drop a comment below. I’m always happy to help a fellow DIYer.